Nyika National Park is just 250kms from the northern boundary of the South Luangwa National Park. But its position on the edge of the rift valley and its elevation (most of the plateau is above 2,200m) means that it’s hard to believe they are on the same continent. The few similarities include the presence of zebra and roan antelope grazing the plains, but there the comparisons end. The route up to the plateau follows the road through the miombo woodland until, at around 1900m above sea level, the woodland ends and the vistas expand to show the rolling hills and rocky outcrops of the highlands.
The western side of the plateau receives more rain that the eastern side so is decorated with scattered pockets of afro-montane forest. Along the forest fringe, bracken scrub extends another 50-100m meters before grassland takes over once more. The eastern side is sparser with fewer forest patches, but hosts more of the large peaks which rise up to 3,600m in some cases. Sadly, annual fires which do not mimic any natural cycle, are a significant threat to the remaining forest parcels, eroding them year by year as the margins are burnt. Even in the 5 year period over which we have been visiting, we can see the impact on some of the smallest forest patches. Urgent fire break work is needed to maintain the existing coverage, followed by wider management of the park to control the misuse of this method of vegetation management.
Despite the visible impact of the fires, the landscape, wildlife and climate of the place are spectacular. Long, cool days, with sunshine and storms allow for a great blend of walking, exploring, driving cross-country and, conversely, staying at home close to the log fire! I spent a lot of time exploring, sometimes in atrocious conditions (driving visibility down to 10m at times) and enjoyed great sightings of some of the specials of the area. For more of the landscapes and large wildlife of the area, have a look at the blog from our previous visits.) It is an area that I would love to take guests and visitors, as it’s special, remarkable and so unexpected for an African destination. Contact me if you want to make this happen!
As usual, here’s a brief summary with some photos. Hope you enjoy!
Cinnamon Bracken Warbler in the damp stream margins in front of the camp….
….accompanied by the ‘striking’ Churring Cisticola.
These two Black-lored Cisticolas put on quite a show, duetting to advertise their territorial claim.
The vast White-naped Ravens are numerous on the plateau.
Big scenery, small vehicle.
Sukey dwarfed by the landscape…..
Looking SW towards the southern edge of the plateau; the small pockets of evergreen forest are visible in the valleys.
African/Jacksons Pipit
Red-winged Francolin showing off beautifully in the moorland habitat.
Schalow’s Turaco pair from the evergreen forests.
A special of the forest – an Olive-flanked Ground Robin, best located by their call.
A Cape Batis, split by some as Malawi Batis.
Blue Swallows are highly endangered, thriving only in highland grassland areas from Uganda to South Africa. Perhaps fewer than 1000 pairs remain, but they are thriving on the plateau – this youngster is notable for his fleshy gape, indicating youth.
The kids had a lot of fun in the mud too!
Angolan Swallow – told from Barn Swallow by the windows in the tail and the incomplete black breast band.
Red-rumped Swallows resting on a burnt tree in the rain!
Occasional significant storms rolled in across the plateau – see below for a timelapse!
Denham’s Bustard – a huge bird – powering strongly across the vast grasslands.
A real rainforest special – a Bar-tailed Trogon….
…and his mate. They are forest birds, hawking for insects from exposed perches.
Very special scenery, especially with the heavy leaden skies.
An uncommon visitor to Zambia from the palearctic – a Whinchat.
Exploring the Manyanjere Forest on the Zambian side — dense undergrowth sometimes gives way to massive Entandrophragma excelsus trees that rise 50m towards the clouds.
Good family time….
…with stunning surroundings. I’d go back there tomorrow!
On one of our last evenings, a massive storm was brewing on the western side of the plateau…..I set my camera to time-lapse. It’s worth watching to the end as the storm seems to accelerate across the plateau!
