I was much looking forward to John Erik returning to Zambia after the extended time away due to the pandemic. In the intervening period, he had spent a lot of time continuing to enjoy and develop his photography skills and techniques through visits to hides in the UK and overseas travel. He was well-prepared for whatever our photo tour to Kafue would throw at us and, as the images below show, he did justice to the opportunities! Hope you enjoy his write up and please follow the links to his website where you’ll see more of his work.
Magnificent Kafue
Remarkably Ed spotted it. Our very good local Bush Camp guide didn’t. Clearly neither did I. The moon was still up and it was pre-dawn gloomy. It was yet another 20 minutes to sunrise. We stopped the Landcruiser and Ed pointed into the woods on the edge of the Busanga plain. And there it was 300 meters away – between two trees – a couple of ears popping up. And then four more. The three lionesses started to slowly walk away. How Ed managed to spot them was incredible. But that’s why I came back to Zambia on a photo safari with Ed Selfe, after an unforgettable trip to South Luangwa in 2019. Not only is he a very good photographer, but he has lived in Zambia for 15 years and knows the environment inside out. His knowledge of the local wildlife and their behaviour allows him to get us into the most incredible positions for great shots. If you don’t get the photos you want, then there is no point blaming Ed.
We tracked the lionesses for hours – through the woods and to the waterhole. Patience is key and it pays off. Calculating light, position and anticipating the animals’ next steps was the business we undertook early morning and later evenings for 12 days across the Kafue National Park. This remote and less well visited park is a haven for wildlife and covers an area larger than Wales.
We started this trip at the northern end of Kafue, on the Busanga plain. A vast open savannah with a myriad of life, Lechwes in the thousands, Pukus, Sables, Roan antelopes and Elephants among other wildlife, with the ace predators of Lions and Leopards hunting among gullies, trees and thickets. Unlike other more accessible national parks in Zambia, Kafue is quieter with far fewer safari vehicles. Wifi and cellular reception is mostly absent – which adds to the feeling of being removed from the busy normal world and it allows you to be fully engrossed in this beautiful wilderness.
We ended the trip in the Musekese sector of the park along the majestic Kafue river, a broad meandering river teeming with life. We used a boat to explore the riverside. This gives you a different perspective of the landscape and provides an excellent viewpoint for photography. Slowly drifting along the riverbanks with the low sun behind creates a magical light to observe and shoot the animals venturing down to drink. The river attracts an abundance of bird life in all colours, sizes and shapes – a truly magnificent feast for bird enthusiasts.
It was an amazing 12 days with Ed in the wilderness. Sadly, I’m now back in London. But, I will have the pleasure of sifting through thousands of photos to edit and display. For more photos from this excellent trip see my new Kafue entry in the Gallery section of my website. I will also post a few blogs about this excellent and magical trip … thank you Ed!
